LutherBurger
Squier-holic
This is sloppy work. I'm glad you're happy with what you have now, but I wouldn't be so quick to blame these components.
This is sloppy work. I'm glad you're happy with what you have now, but I wouldn't be so quick to blame these components.
This is sloppy work. I'm glad you're happy with what you have now, but I wouldn't be so quick to blame these components.
This is sloppy work. I'm glad you're happy with what you have now, but I wouldn't be so quick to blame these components.
This is the wiring for it. That's why it doesn't look rite compared to your wiring diagram.
View attachment 132726
You're right, my mistake it's A2. I corrected it.I thought all the probuckers were alnico II.
Is that not the case?
That wiring scheme isn't "wrong", it's just an alternate way to wire a guitar with two volume knobs. The reason for it is so that when both pickups are selected you can turn one volume knob down without it killing both pickups. The downside, as fadetoz figured out, is that it drastically alters the taper of the pots.
Here's a plot of the two schemes to show the difference. Green is with the volume knob at 10, red is with the volume knob at 5, blue is with the volume knob at 1. Turning the knob to zero would of course kill all output. The solid lines show how it was wired (wiper to pickup). The dotted lines show what it would look like swapped around (wiper to switch). All calculations were done with the tone knob at 10.
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The "light switch" taper is quite apparent as the solid blue line (volume knob at 1) is higher than the dotted red line (volume knob at 5). You can also see how it rolls off more high frequencies which is why it acted more like a tone knob than volume knob.
That wiring scheme isn't "wrong", it's just an alternate way to wire a guitar with two volume knobs. The reason for it is so that when both pickups are selected you can turn one volume knob down without it killing both pickups. The downside, as fadetoz figured out, is that it drastically alters the taper of the pots.
Here's a plot of the two schemes to show the difference. Green is with the volume knob at 10, red is with the volume knob at 5, blue is with the volume knob at 1. Turning the knob to zero would of course kill all output. The solid lines show how it was wired (wiper to pickup). The dotted lines show what it would look like swapped around (wiper to switch). All calculations were done with the tone knob at 10.
![]()
The "light switch" taper is quite apparent as the solid blue line (volume knob at 1) is higher than the dotted red line (volume knob at 5). You can also see how it rolls off more high frequencies which is why it acted more like a tone knob than volume knob.
Did you include the treble bleed in that? Likely a 150k resistor and what looks like a .0022uf cap in parallel between legs 1 and 2 of the volume. curious to see how much more that altered the response and sweep.
Also what program it equipment are you using to graph that? I have been meaning to look for such a thing just not sure where to begin.
Here it is with the treble bleed.
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I'm using Excel to do the calculations and graphs. Convert all components to their 2-dimensional "Z" values (resitive & reactive) using the COMPLEX function. Then you can use basic voltage divider formulas. Convert your final answer back to a real number using the IMABS function. You can also use the IMARGUMENT function to see the phase shift (handy when working with feedback loops).
but will you send us the file?
Here it is with the treble bleed.
![]()
I'm using Excel to do the calculations and graphs. Convert all components to their 2-dimensional "Z" values (resitive & reactive) using the COMPLEX function. Then you can use basic voltage divider formulas. Convert your final answer back to a real number using the IMABS function. You can also use the IMARGUMENT function to see the phase shift (handy when working with feedback loops).