Action Adjustment

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matiac

Squier Talker
Jan 15, 2012
48
Westerly Rhode Island
Hello everyone, me again with another question about this Squier I have. Now I'm somewhat familiar with fact that some Fender-type guitars have a "radius", or arc the strings make over the fretboard. What I'd like to find out is, do I need a special guage to maintain the radius, as I'd like to lower the action without shimming the neck, which I had to do with a Squier Telecaster I once owned. I'm pretty certain it's not something I can "eyeball", and the action is a tad high for my liking. And this particular specimen has a rather pronounced arc (radius) to the strings, as does the top of the fretboard. The neck is arrow straight, sits in the neck pocket good (level), I'm wondering if I could make some sort of "template" out of cardboard, or something along those lines...anyone?
 

hudsonnh

Squier-holic
Aug 28, 2011
3,400
Marshall, VA
I didin't go check any other threads - but I assume this is a Strat?

I set the action individually for each string, measured from the top of the 17th fret, to get me into the ball park.
Because of that, neck radius isn't a factor for me.

WRT "eye balling" - I use feeler guages now - since I can't see 32nds or 64ths on a ruler anymore.....
 

ghostwolf

Squier-holic
Dec 30, 2009
1,633
texas
just use a 6" ruler graduated in 32nds or MM. set the end across the last two frets, then set the bottom of each string the same distance off the frets.
 

matiac

Squier Talker
Jan 15, 2012
48
Westerly Rhode Island
Thanks Gents, did the individual strings, and did a common distance for each, i.e., ballparked it, didn't measure it, just lowered them 'til I heard them buzz, and raised them from there. Warmer weather will no doubt require re-adjustment, but now it plays like the proverbial "butter". It was just I saw string radius guages in my Stew-Mac catalog, and panicked, figuring I'd need one, or a reasonable facsimile of one, but being a relative newbie to Strats (yes, it's a Strat), didn't realize I could adjust them singly. Again, I thank you.
Cheers!
 

Papa Joe

Squier-Axpert
Dec 12, 2009
18,316
Swanton Ohio
It sounds to me like you are mis-understanding what neck radius really is..The radius is the arc accross the neck not parallel with the strings..You can't,or need to, change the radius without removing the frets and sanding the radius..All you need to do is adjust the saddle height (and some times the nut) to adjust the action..That is if the neck is straight and you say it is..
 

czook

Squier-holic
Feb 9, 2011
1,578
NWMO
I have a set of the under string radius gauges and rarely mess with them. I get the radius close on the saddles then lower or raise them until the buzz is gone.


But...I set the neck truss rod first for a straight or slight backbow that will be resolved by string tension. ... and before that I make sure the frets are level with each other when the neck is straight. ...and the nut... ;)

My tiny point is, adjusting saddle height for action and length for intonation is not where I start, it is the last step. The radius formed by your saddles is a rough starting point that you dial in to your preferences once everything else is right.
 

alfunkz

Squier-holic
Nov 27, 2011
1,661
peterborough
fender recommends 1.6mm from the 17th fret for a nice low action, each saddle should have 2 allen screws that adjust the hieght of the strings, make sure saddle is level and the stings should naturally follow the arc of fretboard
 

czook

Squier-holic
Feb 9, 2011
1,578
NWMO
Ooops, PJ posted just ahead of me and way more to the point than my post. I tend to ramble and not edit ;)
 

hudsonnh

Squier-holic
Aug 28, 2011
3,400
Marshall, VA
I have a set of the under string radius gauges and rarely mess with them. I get the radius close on the saddles then lower or raise them until the buzz is gone.


But...I set the neck truss rod first for a straight or slight backbow that will be resolved by string tension. ... and before that I make sure the frets are level with each other when the neck is straight. ...and the nut... ;)

My tiny point is, adjusting saddle height for action and length for intonation is not where I start, it is the last step. The radius formed by your saddles is a rough starting point that you dial in to your preferences once everything else is right.

that's a well developed answer - I also do action and intonation just about last (for me - pup height is the final last thing....)
 

matiac

Squier Talker
Jan 15, 2012
48
Westerly Rhode Island
It sounds to me like you are mis-understanding what neck radius really is..The radius is the arc accross the neck not parallel with the strings..You can't,or need to, change the radius without removing the frets and sanding the radius..All you need to do is adjust the saddle height (and some times the nut) to adjust the action..That is if the neck is straight and you say it is..
Nope, totally understand it goes across the neck, was just nervous about matching the bridge saddles with the arc across the neck and maintaining a usable distance without making the strings buzz, but got 'er ironed out, plays WORLDS better now, just got done whamming away for a while, so everything's up-to-snuff...
 

matiac

Squier Talker
Jan 15, 2012
48
Westerly Rhode Island
Here's the guitar in question:
ABadassStrat.jpg
 

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