Show off your REAL relics!

Discussion in 'Pak Rats Nest' started by Lanaka, Sep 17, 2021.

  1. Eddd

    Eddd Squier-holic

    Nov 20, 2019
    It’s funny how all of these “older “ guitars don’t look like they have had the crap kicked out of them like those so called ugly relics people are making these days.I think every fake relic is effin ugly and a waste of money .
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  2. miket1117

    miket1117 Squier-holic Gold Supporting Member

    Mar 31, 2018
    Kansas City
    im far from being an expert, but if it were me, i'd seriously consider repair. it may not have gotten worse, but that may be because of it not being played.
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  3. miket1117

    miket1117 Squier-holic Gold Supporting Member

    Mar 31, 2018
    Kansas City
    wow. very cool. looks mint... the amp less so... :)
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  4. Fergyuk

    Fergyuk Squier-Meister

    Dec 3, 2019
    Not a lot of relicing going on here but these are some of my oldest guitars!
    Kay K520 Hummingbird (1970's) a few scratches and dings and a lot of fret wear.
    Antoria SG MIJ (1970's) some dings the bottom horn tip has lost some paint.
    Fender Gemini II (1980's) Some dings & scratches.
    Musima East German Strat copy (1970's) body in good shape light scuffs, replaced bridge saddles, pick up covers, pickguard, volume & tone knobs and with a recently replaced neck.
    Hohner Arbor Series LP (1980's) good all round condition
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2021
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  5. wickedtools

    wickedtools Dr. Squier

    May 16, 2010
    west texas
    The fretboard has lots of wear just the pic and lighting washed it out. The body has chips, scratches some dents from years playing in honky tonks the case looks like the amp.:)
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  6. Lanaka

    Lanaka Squier-holic

    Feb 11, 2020
    Honolulu, HI
    That has crossed my mind, thats why I raised the possibility of just monitoring the neck and install ligh strings, the "Concert" came with either 11s or 12s. Im thinking of using 09s or 10s.

    Nice cream Tele and Vib! Also nice of Wifey to occasionally let you play on them! :D

    Niice, love when vintage cases are part of the mix!

    Here's another of my obscure vintage late-70s to early-80s (a guess here as I couldnt find ANY info on it). It's a tobacco burst offset(?) with a "Western" label on headstock. It is in excellent condition, betcha that it spent most of it's existence in the vintage chipboard case... probably due to the same issue as on the Artisan and the Kingston Swinga. The fret scale length wants the saddles at where the bridge is, so the saddles are several inches off.

    01 - 43177e15119a45ff930cbf96dadddb81.jpg
    And yes, the chipboard has a neat black gator skin texture!

    Dangs this guitar is SO hard to get a good shot without a flash bomb.

    While the hardwares are almost all there (only the center post of the hi-E tuner has broken off), I'm sorta reluctant to move the saddles as the finish under the saddle has a much lighter rectangular patch of unaged finish.

    04 - f5b37b567b9b4b6fa5a39fd9ec14510c.jpg
    You can see the missing hi-E post, it's now rattling around in the chipboard case's storage compartment.

    The rear view of the neck and head.

    Closeup of the body front and rear.

    Everything aside the hi-E post is there and functioning well. The intonation is off, but the best workaround i found is to tune it so it sounds best at one set of 5 frets, whether it be at the low end (1-5) or in middle (around the 12th fret). I usually leave it tuned around the 12th. ;)

    I think that's cuz the old ones' wear are real and logically consistent to actual usages. OTOH, the bad relic jobs places the damages illogically and randomly. The good relic jobs are done strategically and with skill to place the correct damage in correct locations in the correct way. That's why the good jobs are so expensive, Skill = Expensive. Unfortunately the unskilled hacks think they can get away with trashing a guitar and expect to get double the price by calling it a relic job.

    A key note here: a LITTLE does a LOT. A little chip placed here, a ding there, some set of scratches strategically place in back, perhaps a bit of rubbing off of finish at the contact area's edge are often all it takes. Most bust up job goes bust because of excessive fake weathering in wrong places and too much.

    Yup, thats why I'll take it to a luthier for assessment, but I wonder how many luthiers are even familiar with laminated necks. Have feeling my best option is to find a luthier who knows those Martin lam necks well.

    Those guitars are mighty tasty...especially the Antoria SG, oddly enough, that white guard looks good! Normally I dislike the SG's rather ugly pickguard designs.

    The Musima Strat also looks well thought out. Had wondered how a black guard would look on a 3-tone burst, altho the Musima has that unusual twist on the burst by covering the entire forearm contour in black only. Looks nice!
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  7. Archtops

    Archtops Squier-Meister

    Jun 6, 2021
    Here is my late 30’s-1940 Kalamazoo Archtop. I do have all the parts so maybe someday I’ll restring it. I traded two old surfboards for it.

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  8. Lanaka

    Lanaka Squier-holic

    Feb 11, 2020
    Honolulu, HI
    Forgot to mention that Hohner Arbor LP has what has to be one of my most favorite burst, the black-red. There's a Strat I saw recently that had a burst like the Hohner, its the recent acquisition by @Powerstroke. Makes me wanna search for one myself.:D

    The only guitar in my collection that comes close is my 80s MIJ Memphis LP. Its red-yellow burst but with very little yellow.

    Memphis BF (900²).jpg
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  9. Lanaka

    Lanaka Squier-holic

    Feb 11, 2020
    Honolulu, HI
    Here's the first of my two Vs, this one's a relic in its age only, whilst the other is a relic in both age and condition.

    The age-only relic is my 1994 Jackson JRR-94 Concept V. At 27 years old its just past the minimum 25 years to be considered an official vintage. However, its in extremely good condition. Maybe it spent the majority of its time in its factory fitted hard shell case.


    01 - 444f3ecca955387db547ce04aa97de72.jpeg


    It's interesting that this is a spot model in which it was a 1-year only run to gauge popularity and get feedback from buyers for what to fix and/or include into the upcoming production model. It must've worked because the Rhoads V has been in continuous production since 1995!
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  10. corn

    corn Squier-holic

    Feb 27, 2013
    San Diego
    1965 Reverberocket
    613DAFE5-96C9-4C70-A241-44BE71B48968.jpeg EFAADBD5-3F8A-4C42-8DD1-A3AB03383CD7.jpeg F904D3C8-02DC-4585-9D6E-7FCD2244DDBA.jpeg
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  11. Lanaka

    Lanaka Squier-holic

    Feb 11, 2020
    Honolulu, HI
    Here's the second of my two Vs, this one's a relic in both age and condition.

    This is my 80s Lawsuit era MIJ Cort Flying V. Yes, they even copied the name too. :D


    It is in excellent condition, but shows some minor corrosion on the brass-plated hardwares. The finish has minimal scratches and dings, mostly confined to the ends of the horns, both of which now sports a strap button (neat idea, whomever did that).

    The headstock has golden Cort labeled tuners. For now no plans to replace them. But I will replace the truss cover for brass replacements and install black and gold String Butlers.

    The neck is a set neck, which is an unusual feature to be found on Lawsuit era guitars. Most are bolt-ons.

    The pups will be swapped out for Whole Lotta Humbuckers in gold, the pup trim rings for black Triple-Shots. The pickguard for brass one, when I do this, I'm gonna eliminate that ugly notch in bottom left side of the pickguard. I'm going to ask the brasssmiths whether they can fab a brass cover for the Triple-Shot.

    The controls will be modified to one of two possible sets:

    1) 3 way toggle, B375k volume for neck, B375k volume for bridge, master tone B375k with vtreb on volumes and a 0.033μF cap on tone.

    2) B330k pots; volume+vtreb for neck, volume+vtreb for bridge, tone+0.015μF cap for neck and tone+0.015μF cap for bridge. The neck volume will replace the 3way switch.

    3) Add a 3way toggle switch somewhere in the cavity that runs vertically from bridge pup to neck pup (most likely next to bridge pup) to allow slanting the switch to have neck throw pointing at ~320°, then same pot controls as #2.

    Angled rear view showing output jack. Gold Pure Tone output jack in a gold jack plate.
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2021
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  12. Lanaka

    Lanaka Squier-holic

    Feb 11, 2020
    Honolulu, HI
    In general, I agree, however there are, as always, exceptions. Some genuinely old and relic'ed does look like they've been crap abused then abandoned, these are generally ugly to see. The desireable relics are those that gotten worn from actual frequent and/or long use.

    Insofar as fake relics are concerned, yes the vast majority of those seen on the market are ugly and waste of money, thats because those were made by unskilled amateurs who doesn't know what they're doing.

    The really skilled relic'ers knows and studies real relics and emulates them. They know how they were made, where they're usually found, and how much damage are found for each relic level.

    The learning are relatively quick, but what does take long time to perfect are the skills to recreate a realistic relic look on any guitar. That takes time and skills. That's why places like Custom Shops for Fender and Gibson like to trumpet the fact their cadre of relicers have years of experience in replicating famous real guitars used by famous people. Those guys don't come cheap. Much of the money you pay the Shop goes to them as is proper.

    The problem is that most of the unskilled amateurs look at these Custom Shop Relics and think that they can just ruin any ol' guitar and get away at selling them for exorbitant sums of money. Most of the time, it will take them weeks or months to get a relic fancier fool who don't know the real ones from the good ones from the bad ones and buys it. You and I know better, but there's lotsa fools on both sides of the table out there that don't.

    Whats worse is the general ignorance of the variety in the range of real relics, from the virtually mint ones all the way to something that has been used hard n heavily all night every night for years or even decades.

    IF I were to buy a relic'ed guitar (and thats a big IF, for reasons I'll explain shortly) I'd only buy light relics on my guitars. BUT, why bother paying for such light wearing when I can get the same weathering for free done by myself? The trade-off is that I will have to wait for my usage of the guitar to imprint the wear on the guitar. ;) If so be prepared to wait for years for that to happen, as I'm habitually very careful about the handling and usage of my guitars.

    I might accidentally bump or knock a guitar lightly one a month or two. I haven't dropped a guitar in years. I typically keep my guitars covered, whether it be in gigbags or cases, OR on hangers/stands with a shroud draped over it. When I put my guitars down it's nearly always on a soft clean surface IF it's not back on its designated stand.

    Hey, when one typically spends upwards of 750$ MINIMUM, on any given guitar, it becomes an investment of a sort, altho one that I do not expect to get any materialistic gain from said guitar. It's all in the enjoyment and pride in having something that is uniquely MINE.

    Yes, even those inspired-by project, these are NOT 1:1 copies of the originals. Instead I take whatever aspects of those guitars and copy only those elements that inspires something in me, whether its just looks or sounds or any combination of factors, BUT I don't have to and will NOT copy/simulate everything on the source guitar.

    Enjoy your axes and make them anything ye want in being uniquely yours!
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  13. radiotech

    radiotech Squier-Axpert

    Apr 23, 2014
    This Conrad Hollowbody was naturally relic’d for 50 years before I got it, I don’t usually restore natural wear, but I did glue some binding near the trapeze tailpiece, and make a new small block under the bridge (because the original was too small and slipped, causing the top to flatten). I also re-glued the original nut.
    61C5FC81-6FAD-481F-A1C2-BEB4B9DE04A1.jpeg F34832C2-F5B3-4143-A9F2-211CB1ADA276.jpeg 9B8589AC-42E7-4CA4-A3C9-619C3C94D9EA.jpeg 4AFE8246-950D-45D1-BC1E-1E8B115D8696.jpeg
    I bought Gotoh tuners for it, but after reworking/lubing the originals, they’re working fine.
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  14. Lanaka

    Lanaka Squier-holic

    Feb 11, 2020
    Honolulu, HI
    I agree, not all real relics are pretty. Tis an unfortunate truth in that Fender's lacquer choices in the past was not great, especially those from the CBS era, when those damned bean counters bought Fender and just tried wringing every bit of profit by cutting on every corner and STILL sell everything at exorbitant prices.

    Glad the new owners are more saner and realistic. Fender is now better. Just wished the same thing could be about "authentic" BS Gibson. Yes, I still remember all those BS those bean counters who've bought Gibson has done over the recent years. To this day I refuse to buy any new Gibson products, with the exception of Epiphone, ever since that "Authentic" video dropped on YouTube. IF I were to consider a Gibson, it'd be only secondhands, and ONLY after an in-person quality check.
  15. Lanaka

    Lanaka Squier-holic

    Feb 11, 2020
    Honolulu, HI
    Thats ok, necessary repairs to make it playable is acceptable and desireable. I'd do the same thing ere I get an older guitar that need TLC to be playable.

    They're meant to be played, not sit pretty in a case in the corner. Just like a sports car is meant to be driven, not sit n rust away in the garage!

    That Conrad has what has to be one of my most favorite burst: Black-red burst! Of course, any guitar that sports reds and blacks are gonna be on my fave list, LOL! Altho I have to admit any guitar that has an interesting finish or features will catch me eye.
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  16. RedBlueThing

    RedBlueThing New Member

    Mar 11, 2021
    My 93 Squire is the second oldest thing in my apartment.


    Only a little bit of wear on the fingerboard, but it's all mine :)
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  17. richardbruce

    richardbruce Squier Talker

    Mar 2, 2021
    Roland rocks!
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  18. JamminJohnny

    JamminJohnny Squier Talker

    Jul 7, 2021
    SW Missouri
    That is a very cool guitar. At a quick glance it resembles a cello .But very cool.
  19. Lanaka

    Lanaka Squier-holic

    Feb 11, 2020
    Honolulu, HI
    I agree, the silver Cube-40 and Cube-60 are both from the time before Roland went all-in on the digital sound tech. In fact, BOTH amps still have their physical spring reverb workin. I confirmed they're real springs by kicking (GENTLY) them and they reacted, LOL. Altho the Cube-60 bit back by hurting my toe. (OWCH!) That 1x12 is a solid piece of hardware! :D

    80s Cube-40 (1x10, 40W) Front

    80s Cube-40 (1x10,40W) Rear

    Cube-60 (1x12, 60W) Rear*
    01 - 25cae14cffd44f02a76fe2152efd6028.jpg
    *Front is near identical with Cube-40, so didnt include a pic of it.

    Ah heck with it, even tho it's not a vintage, heres my digital Cube-20XL. Bought it on sale new, forgetting that I already had a Cube-40. Oh well. I usually use this when I'm just at friend's place for a jamming/practice/noodling seasion, or in any other situations where I do not want to risk my favorite amps.

    Come to think of it, my Cube-40 & Cube-60 qualifies as relics!
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2021
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