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Discussion in 'Tech-Talk' started by Rgdavid, Dec 2, 2021.
^^ What he said ^^
I wouldn't suggest a Dremel for ANY body routing, solely because it's not designed to do that much work all at once. It can do small trim work, etc. but it's not powerful enough to rout an entire body. One big thing, 1/8" shanks aren't that strong. Trust me, been using Dremels for fifty-five years and I have seen just about every Dremel mishap possible.
To properly (and cheaply) rout a body, go to a Goodwill or a Habitat For Humanity store, maybe a mom and pop Pawn shop or flea market. Find an old but serviceable router, a Bosch, Craftsman, Dewalt, Ryobi, etc. Just test it to see that it will run. Probably less than $50 USD. You will need some straight cutting bits with bearings and a template for what you want to cut out. Watch some YooToob vids, learn what you can. If you don't understand some step, come back and we'll try to help. It's not rocket science but over-extending the capacity of a tool can be dangerous.
And, before you ask, it would take days to cut a body and you might go through a few Dremels and multiple bits in the process.
Once enlarged a route in an ash strat body with a dremel. Ended up getting the job done but it killed the dremel tool. It was a such a monumental pain in the ass that I vowed never to use one for that purpose ever again.
Buy a cheap router. You'll be a lot better off.
You'll change your mind quickly when you accidentally drag one across paint.
Don't ask me how I know...
I haven’t go that far myself but there usually are kits that sell the attachment and the bits together.
This is probably true. In the instance of enlarging pickups routes and cavity depth would you classify that as small details or large cutting?
I once enlarged the cavity to my affinity Strat, rather poorly as I didn’t have any routing bits or a attachment to maintain a 90 degree angle, so I ended up sanding a dish in the cavity where my pots were using the sanding drum. It was scrappy work but I never felt there dremel was struggling. Could this be the difference in the woods? The affinity is alder, which I believe is much softer than mahogany and maple. I don’t know much about Ash.
Hmm, yeah I did have a suspicion of that. All in all, I think we can agree it’s not the perfect tool for the job.
And based on the members voicing their concern and the wealth of experience between them, maybe it’s not the safest option either.
You can nip down to B&Q and get a brand new Bosch router for £80. Cheaper than killing your Dremel on something it was never designed to do.
Thanks very much guys for the advice, I'll try get a second hand router and practice on some wood. Something new to learn and conquer.
Good to use when you want to open a cavity up a little for larger pots too.
Absolutely. The thing is, you've got a set vertical, and on slowest spindle speed there is very little chance of something catching and throwing the drill press or work across the room. It is VERY controlable, and it is easy to hit high spots, or gently shave an edge in small increments.
Chuck up the rasp, set the work, raise the table until just shy of bottoming out and hit the go-button. Just like a real router, push the work into the rotation, not with it.
Looking from the top, the router spins clockwise. You want to cut with the top of the bit and move the router to the right to cut. This also applies to Dremels and their ilk when using them to do light duty routing. This keeps the bit from 'running' across the wood, making it very dangerous to hold on to. BTW, always hold onto a router firmly with both hands when routing.
1/2 HP 1/4 in. Trim Router (harborfreight.com)
$30 for a new one.
I have had one of these for about 10 years, and fully recommend it.
My best way is with a milling machine with end mills. Most precise way to cut wood "by eyeballing" I've experienced.