roller bridge on squier neck

[colorado cowboy]

Howdy: I have a 2019 gold label squier maple strat neck....lots of hours shaping .crowning frets .neck pocket shimming,etc......a birds eye ash body/with tex/mex/ pick-ups....all gold hardware........I need to replace the nut....i have some grapihite nuts.saws,files. and gauges......and a string groove files.......now i need the confidence to replace the cheap nut......would installing a roller nut be a good idea.....(never did it)...have three guitars i would like to replace them with graphite or roller...A 79 tele......2000 dillion...and a tex/mex squier strat.......Any ideas....I don't know what's a good roller nut....thanks..........

 

[Las Palmas Norte]

YouTube has install vids for the LSR roller nut.

 

[AxelMorisson]

Yes I second that. And keep in mind since regular nuts have the string break-off point at the outer edge, this roller nut has it in the middle- so to keep the scale length correct you could need to cut a bit more of the fret and widen the nut channel to accommodate for that. YT has some resources on changing nuts but look specifically for LSR nut install .

 

[Lonn]

Saddle travel will more than cover that if you're not comfortable removing material from the end of the fretboard.

 

[AxelMorisson]

erm..no. You don't need to shift all strings. The idea is that you do that so you don't shift anything-including the "real" length of the first fret. If you just put it where it wants to sit /just dig the "ditch" from the wrong side on, you modify the length of the first fret. Not talking about the whole fretboard and/or scale length, just keeping the scale length (as you would while compensating with the saddles)is important of course but ALSO keeping the first fret to nut distance to make sure you don't get unfixable intonation issues -on the first fret alone.

 

[colorado cowboy]

Howdy: Thanks for the help!.......i can't believe someone would change the distance between the nut where the string distance to the first fret is!!! that would change the whole neck scale...then try to adjust the BRIDGE saddles...there is a reason for cutting fret space to scale!.....Sounds like it would be alot of work ,and getting the right nut height would be difficult....not that much benefit for the risk......maybe it would be easier to install a grapite nut ,file to correct height, and install a set of locking tuners.........NOT change the distance from nut to first fret!!!...plus do roller nuts wear out and need to be replaced??????...i know roller bridges do....i have replaced them....I don't want to get past my level of workmanship....Plus rollers look like a chop job compared to the mild change of a graphite nut......Lots to think about !!!! thanks again for the info.......

 

[Slacker G]

"roller bridge on squier neck"

An unneeded procedure at best.

 

[jjudas]

IMO a Tusq nut is more than adequate on a Strat style neck.

 

[Mikey Mike]

IMO a Tusq nut is more than adequate on a Strat style neck.

I'm with you 100% on that, even though I'm stuck in the
Stone Age with all the bone material I have on hand.

 

[Mikey Mike]

erm..no. You don't need to shift all strings. The idea is that you do that so you don't shift anything-including the "real" length of the first fret. If you just put it where it wants to sit /just dig the "ditch" from the wrong side on, you modify the length of the first fret. Not talking about the whole fretboard and/or scale length, just keeping the scale length (as you would while compensating with the saddles)is important of course but ALSO keeping the first fret to nut distance to make sure you don't get unfixable intonation issues -on the first fret alone.

Nicely said!
Scale and intonation, two things that are set in stone.

 

[colorado cowboy]

I was working on 89 japan telecaster ...installed a strat pick-up set up and tremelo ....w/standard telecaster switch plate.....new fender tuners...........I no longer have the desire for putting a roller nut on these guitars....thanks for talking me out of it.....Think I will go graphite or tusk type........That was very helpful..........cowboy

 

[AxelMorisson]

That is entirely up to you- it's not "wrong" either way, as it is your guitar and only you can know what it needs. But do keep in mind installing a roller nut is a bit tricky in that you will have to carve a bit in the fretboard itself- just enough so that the middle portion of the rolling nut, where the string break is on that device, coincides with what was the far edge of the old nut (the Fender classic style if you will) - the one next to the tuners. And because rolling nuts are a bit wider ,some careful measurement and a Japanese saw is the usual method -others exist too but careful measuring is a must. Then cut out a small slice and Bob's your uncle. A bit like that:

But yeah a Tusq or real bone nut does work wonders and is far superior to whatever plastic is on there now, and usually come in sizes and trims close to the size and look of the old one. And that's a nice thing IMHO. Good luck, no matter what route you take!

 

[Mikey Mike]

That is entirely up to you- it's not "wrong" either way, as it is your guitar and only you can know what it needs. But do keep in mind installing a roller nut is a bit tricky in that you will have to carve a bit in the fretboard itself- just enough so that the middle portion of the rolling nut, where the string break is on that device, coincides with what was the far edge of the old nut (the Fender classic style if you will) - the one next to the tuners. And because rolling nuts are a bit wider ,some careful measurement and a Japanese saw is the usual method -others exist too but careful measuring is a must. Then cut out a small slice and Bob's your uncle. A bit like that:

But yeah a Tusq or real bone nut does work wonders and is far superior to whatever plastic is on there now, and usually come in sizes and trims close to the size and look of the old one. And that's a nice thing IMHO. Good luck, no matter what route you take!

Right on!

We know (or should know) where the scale length is measured from...
the take-off points at the nut and the scale end take-off point at the
saddle/bridge, these are set in stone and do not change.

If the take-off point (because of the requirement of width of material to house the bearings/rollers sets the front of the piece forward into the finger board and thusly being mindful of that and keeping the scale length true via that needed forward placement).

That contraption and a zero-fret I can do without (I like a zero-fret on a headless though).

 

[colorado cowboy]

I got some graphite nuts and plan to go that route.....and a set of lock down tuners....It's a great guitar to play with a live band........I have the klusion style gold tuners from fender........don't hold tune........i whammy alot! ....Like I was playing a bigsby........Graphite nut and locking tuners will help with the tuning.......thanks again ...

 

[Mikey Mike]

Saddle travel will more than cover that if you're not comfortable removing material from the end of the fretboard.

Erroneous info here!