NGD! 1st Jazzmaster.

Discussion in 'Squier Offset Guitars' started by GeorgeA, Jan 7, 2021.

  1. driver8

    driver8 Squier-Meister

    119
    Jun 19, 2020
    USA
    Sweet! Put some flatwounds on it (or half rounds if you don't like flats) and it's like another guitar. Can't stop playing mine!
     
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  2. speelyei

    speelyei Squier-Meister

    Age:
    48
    378
    Sep 22, 2020
    Mesa, AZ
    I do too!
     
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  3. VealCutlet

    VealCutlet Squier-holic Silver Supporting Member

    Aug 9, 2011
    Brookyn, NYC
    I think that the bridge is fine. My new CV JM definitely needed a neck shim. I taped a medium pick in the back of the neck pocket and it made worlds of difference. I was able to raise the bridge and get a bit more string tension and stability. I’ve done this to all of my Squier offsets. Many of the vintage Fender offsets came with a shim installed at the factory - I don’t know why they won’t spend the fraction of a penny in materials and labor to put one in these.
     
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  4. haggardPhunk

    haggardPhunk New Member

    Age:
    33
    2
    Jan 11, 2021
    Denver, CO
    what does the shim do? How does it affect playability?
     
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  5. VealCutlet

    VealCutlet Squier-holic Silver Supporting Member

    Aug 9, 2011
    Brookyn, NYC
    Shimming the neck provides for a bit more adjustability with the bridge, and allows you to use lighter gauge strings with fewer issues. In some cases, action can be improved as well.

    I just shimmed my Classic Player Fender JM last night when intonating with a recently installed upgraded bridge (Wilkinson AOM roller).

    The shim raises the fretboard at an angle - if you look at your guitar from the side, horizontally, the strings pass over the body and fretboard at an angle from the bridge. When you install a shim, this increases the angle of the neck vs. the body. Even .25 of a degree - a thin pick or piece of business card/sandpaper - has an impact.

    After installing the shim, the bridge will need to be raised to provide clearance for the strings. With JMs and Jags, inadequate string tension over the bridge is often an issue - with the original threaded bridge saddles, strings would pop out of their seat - solution was typically to use heavier strings - 12s or 13s.

    The current bridge on the CV JM helps keep the string in place better than the original design, but raising the bridge will make the strings put more downward pressure on the bridge, increasing stability and playability.

    Compare your guitar to this. My JM most likely has a higher bridge (it is not the same bridge on the CV), but you see that the action at the 21st fret is pretty low (no fret buzz whatsoever). I couldn't get this action without a shim - the bridge had previously been bottomed out, provided a higher action, with less string tension. This JM is strung with 9s.

    upload_2021-1-13_14-22-22.png

    Before I installed the shim, the bridge was touching the body. You can see a couple of mm of space between the bottom of the bridge and the pickguard. I installed a shim that I cut out from the below cardboard Amazon gift card. A small adjustment at the neck has a great impact on the required bridge height, so don't overdo it.
    upload_2021-1-13_14-48-28.png