stratmanshow
Squier-Meister
Perhaps this has been discussed at some point?
I just wanted to bring up this about doing a re & re of a neck for whatever reason. The way Fender attaches the neck to the body I don't know, but I assume the must use some kind of clamping system. In most cases the pilot holes on the body appear to be the same diameter as the ones in the neck. Perhaps they drilled while clamped?
In any case, they are smaller than the outside diameter of the screw thread so when the screw goes through it "threads" into the body wood. If the neck is firmly clamped, it should not be a problem but.... once it has been removed and you are just holding it in place and screwing it back on it will likely bite into the neck at least slightly distorted from it's original position and potentially damaging it a bit.
The problem is that if the screw is already threaded into the body wood, once it is tightened it's (the screw) only tight to the body but the neck is not being pulled tight to the body because the screw can't turn any further. It may not be visible either.
Because of this I always drill out the body holes just so that the screw still threads in slightly, but then breaks through and spin without tightening. That insures that you can follow the original track into the neck and will to pull the neck tight into the pocket. (first turning backwards till it drops into the neck thread))
A good example of the problem is when people use the wrong unthreaded collar size on deck-screws and end up burying the head into the wood trying to get it to pull the joint together.
Maybe this is helpful for someone⚒️
I just wanted to bring up this about doing a re & re of a neck for whatever reason. The way Fender attaches the neck to the body I don't know, but I assume the must use some kind of clamping system. In most cases the pilot holes on the body appear to be the same diameter as the ones in the neck. Perhaps they drilled while clamped?
In any case, they are smaller than the outside diameter of the screw thread so when the screw goes through it "threads" into the body wood. If the neck is firmly clamped, it should not be a problem but.... once it has been removed and you are just holding it in place and screwing it back on it will likely bite into the neck at least slightly distorted from it's original position and potentially damaging it a bit.
The problem is that if the screw is already threaded into the body wood, once it is tightened it's (the screw) only tight to the body but the neck is not being pulled tight to the body because the screw can't turn any further. It may not be visible either.
Because of this I always drill out the body holes just so that the screw still threads in slightly, but then breaks through and spin without tightening. That insures that you can follow the original track into the neck and will to pull the neck tight into the pocket. (first turning backwards till it drops into the neck thread))
A good example of the problem is when people use the wrong unthreaded collar size on deck-screws and end up burying the head into the wood trying to get it to pull the joint together.
Maybe this is helpful for someone⚒️
