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Discussion in 'Squier Telecasters' started by Michael7, Oct 28, 2020.
Much better !
Hard pass on any tele top loader at any price...Had a 59 top loader and sold it for $800 in late 70’s to a local semi pro country picker.
I thought I hated it but she’d be a rare bird and worth a cool fortune right now, tho $800 back then was huge money.
I’ve only in the last few years come to understand Telecasters and figured out how to make the appropriate noises with one.
I wonder if I can return it if I mess up the drilling? Would the WM cashiers even know?
I have one and it is very light weight and definitely not maple. It is a build I did and it is a decent guitar. I made a demo.
The grain resembles ash but is much lighter and softer than hard ash. but it works...
Has decent looking grain too.
You’re gonna need some “Minwax Wood Hardener” under the bridge, and in the neck pocket. I built a Strat with a Palouwina body (grain looked just like the bare Tele body the OP posted) I managed to pull a bunch of the screws out where the Trem was attached (plus the spring claw thingy) because the wood was so soft. I got another body and doused it in the gardener and that one held up just fine (it neck dove as bad as an SG though)
Mine came in the mail. It's super light, looks just like the product pic on the website. GuitarFetish sent me a sale email so I went ahead and ordered one of their premium Tele necks for $60, I might just have this thing put together before year's end.
I was planning on just doing a Tru-Oil finish on mine, as I don't really have the facilities for spraying lacquer (no garage). If I was applying that Minwax Wood Hardener, would I do that first, then the Tru-Oil, vice-versa, or only the wood hardener under the bridge and in the neck pocket, and only Tru-Oil everywhere else? This is my first attempt at a partscaster, have only replaced electronics and hardware in the past.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I would do the hardener first, just where you’re screwing things to the body. I sprayed Shellac over everything afterwards
(It makes a good sealer coat because it sticks to everything, and most everything sticks to it) I would find a piece of scrap wood, or maybe just try the neck pocket to see what Tru-oil does on the hardener. It may not have any issues sticking, but it probably won’t look the same as TO on bare wood. I TO every neck I have, and I’ve TO’ed one body now. Necks aren’t so bad but I think I put 30 or 40 coats on the body I did, and it’s still uneven... so it’ll look nice (it really brings out the grain) but it may not make the slick, flat surface spraying Clear does... (unless you’re willing to do a TON of coats with sanding between)
I’ve sprayed many bodies just outside... I took an old Broom handle and cut a flat spot on it, to screw 2 neck screws into it and just stabbed that into the ground while I was painting. It’s safe to move inside after like an hour if you can find a spot to put the stick where nothing touches the body. It might smell a little but not nearly as bad as actually spraying inside. I put the stick longways on a Cabinet with a bunch of heavy stuff on it, with the body hanging out in space so it didn’t touch anything. I hope this makes sense... I wish I had pictures of this to better explain this. You don’t need a fancy spray booth or whatever as long as you have somewhere outdoors you can go! And Humidity is the problem, I’ve sprayed bodies outside in Wisconsin in the winter, just put your spray cans in a tub or whatever of warm water when you’re not actually spraying. As long as the paint is warm you’ll be ok!
If the usual free shipping for anything over $35 thru Walmart this would be sweet. If reasonable shipping cost apply, good too. I've gotten far too excited over a 'bargain" price on any Guitar part, only to find out the shipping and handling is something like $125.00, and I'm not told until midway thru checkout. If you buy, please let us know if it's (as we say in Alabama) "any count".
I've built guitar bodies from maple butcher block, it's strong. It will EAT router bits so using carbide bits are necessary. Kinda looks fun too.
These bodies have gone up to $35, but the price still includes shipping. Just follow the link in my original post.
You'd be surprised at the different things you can buy at different stores these days. Bought a audio technica 95 turntables cartridge at home depot .com at a fair price they no longer sell those but. Walmart has a large assortments of guitars and parts.
Just for giggles I tried to line up this body with the body of my Squier Std. Tele, just wanted to see if the silhouettes match. They do not, this Walmart body has a wider horn at the cutaway. I feel like this might make it look a little goofy once the pickguard is on, but I'm fine with my first partscaster project looking a little goofy. That's "personality", right?
Off topic. That AT-95 is a sweet affordable cart. And has great reviews. I own 2 of them along w others.
I made the cart holder from a car model case.
It's Paulownia. Definitely not Poplar. Guy I know here in town got one. The routes were clean and the roundover was done well. It's just really soft wood.
The wood hardener is basically just a super-thinned clearcoat. It's probably almost 75% solvent. That wood is pretty porous, so I'd get the Tru-Oil Sealer and put a few coats of that on first. It'll make your Tru-Oil job much easier.
EDIT: The wood is REALLY going to soak up that Tru-Oil, so you could follow a process of:
1. Several Tru-Oil coats that will soak in and technically harden the wood.
2. Several Tru-Oil sealer coats.
3. More Tru-Oil coats.
The hardener is so thin you can't really control it when it's applied. If you try to put it only under the bridge, for example, chances are it's going to spread out while it soaks and you'll end up with blotches.
I have that guitars’ twin. Also got it from Walmart a few years ago for the same price. Very fun and light guitar. Also did some upgrades on mine.
There’s that old GAS acting up again....
Yes at95 you cannot go wrong. Diggin the case possum'!!