New (old) Jazz Bass build

Discussion in 'Other Guitars' started by Bassman96, Apr 27, 2019.

  1. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    Well that's 2 votes for left so.... Ofcourse I went right lol. It just speaks to me more and had been stuck in my head for 2 days. Time will tell how it looks once the color coat is done. I think I have just one more color coat to go. Pics in a little while.
     
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  2. wonkenstein

    wonkenstein Squier-holic

    Feb 3, 2017
    NH
    Well I would have voted for the color on the left. BUT this is YOUR project. By the way, warming up the spray cans to about 90 degrees does make a huge difference - the paint comes out at higher pressure and atomizes much better, not to mention flow out when it hits the surface.
    Ain't nothing wrong with a nice poly finish, either - jeeze, why did Fender go poly on so many of their solid colors? Durability for one thing. Poly colors will age in time, too. Nitro is not better than poly - it's a different material, that's all, and it's the way many wood surfaces used to be finished. Said it before and I'll say it again - because of the way you went after your surface prep in the first place, you're going to get a killer finish.
     
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  3. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    I ended up doing 4 coats of color. I do like it now that it's on the body and I can see it in large scale. Much more "surf green" than the other can. I will hang onto that color though for the next bass project that might come along (I do still have an allparts fretless neck after all).

    Here is the finished product now hanging in my closet again where it will stay till at least Monday when I will apply the clear coat.

    20190502_115233.jpg 20190502_115041.jpg 20190502_115205.jpg

    Now to shift focus on the neck. Stay tuned!
     
  4. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    And the neck is no longer a cheeto lol. Now Chester is a white chedder cheeto.

    20190502_130636.jpg 20190502_130646.jpg
     
  5. Robb

    Robb Squier-holic

    Jan 13, 2011
    Chertsey Canada.
    I`m lovin' this thread :)
     
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  6. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    Well... The surface prep cannot protect it from myself apparently lol. Right off the bat this morning I knocked the back of the large horn with my vise handle while I was getting it ready to be sprayed. Left a bit of a ding but I'm not starting over so it will just have to be there.

    20190502_133541.jpg

    Once the pickguard is on it the color really takes on that vintage surf green from the sample pic I have. I can't wait to get the chrome on this.

    20190502_133455.jpg

    Here is the pic I was trying to color match to..

    DqlhrhKU4AAz1as.jpg

    Pretty close minus the fade so I'm a happy camper as long as I can avoid any more unintentional relicing from here on out lol
     
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  7. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    Now that the paint is dry (not cured) I couldn't resist doing a quick mockup to see how it looks with this color. I am SO STOKED to get this finished now! This is exactly what I had in mind.

    20190502_200624.jpg

    Gonna have to modify the ashtray a bit to fit over the Badass II bridge that will be on here but I have a plan for that. Neck finishing starts tomorrow and yes... I will be putting an aftermarket decal on here so those of you who take issue may need to look away. Stay tuned
     
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  8. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    Today I got started on the neck. First step was to remove the nut and mask off the fretboard. Then I masked the heal and set it in the neck pocket and traced the outline of the pocket onto the tape so I don't buildup finish there causing fit issues but still get clear onto the parts that are not covered by the body.

    20190503_120353.jpg

    Then I applied the first of many light coats of Deft. I love this stuff and it is a modern Nitro mix (contains Cellulose Nitrate) so make sure you spray in a well ventilated area for your lungs sake. Between sprays I like to do a light buff with one of these grey 3m scrubbies. It is equivalent to 00 steel wool but is slightly less aggressive and doesn't leave metal dust behind. They are just perfect for lightly knocking down the previous coat to keep the surface flat and smooth which pays off when it comes time to wet sand.

    20190503_120316.jpg 20190503_120333.jpg

    Just need to do a few more coats to the face and then it will cure for a couple days before wetsanding the face to 2000 and applying the decal then more clear and more sanding then more clear and sanding again lol. This will be a continuous process throughout the clear coating and curing of the body. Nearly to the home streatch. Stay tuned!
     
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  9. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    Such a lovely day for sun bathing lol.

    20190504_161050.jpg

    I am officially watching paint dry amd going stir crazy with it. I had to shoot another light coat of color on the body. A close sunlight inspection showed a couple spots that were lighter than others so clear coating that has been delayed another 2 days and I also need the neck to cure another day or two before wetsanding the face smooth. *Twiddles thumbs.

    I might build a compressor pedal for this while I wait lol. How long do you guys keep your necks in the sun to get a good deep tint to them?
     
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  10. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    Well I threw caution at the wind and set about sanding the face of the headstock up to 2500 grit. This is to prepare it for the waterslide decals I then put on. Luckily (as I had hoped) the laquer had cured enough to sand. So I got out my high polymer erasers Forget expensive rubber sanding blocks. These are 3 for 1.45 at walmart and you can cut them to different sizes and shapes to get into any spot you need to.

    20190504_195350.jpg 20190504_195408.jpg

    Then I started at 1000 grit and with only the slightest doward pressure wet sanded the face till it had an even haze all across it and no shiney dots. The shiney dots are low spots and you neednto bring the finish down to their levels. Be careful with the edges. They are the easiest to sand through and then you will have to start all over. Go slow and check often. You can always sand more but you can't unsand something.

    Once I had that I went up the grits 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500 and then I had a shineyish face. If I was bringing this to a full gloss I would have continued with a rubbing compound then a polishing compound before finishing with a car wax. All I needed was a perfectly smooth surface to put the decals over to not get a hazy look to them.

    20190504_195506.jpg

    Then I got resituated for waterslide installation. So yes... I am putting a Fender logo on this. This is my bass .. a very important bass and if for some horrible reason I ever have to sell it the headstock will be refinished. Besides... when I originally ordered all these parts the total spentnwas around $1200. Its saying Fender lol. Whatever your moral compass compels you to do go with that... I'm going with this. The procedure is the same no matter what your water slide says on it. Get some qtips, a small paint brush, paper towels and luke warm water ready. Then trim the decals to just around the lettering making sure not to create any corners. You want round as that will be easier to blend in the next clear coat application step. Then get an idea of where they are going.

    20190504_201553.jpg

    Then lightly wet the spot your decal is going and place it in the water for 10 secs. Then take it out and let it sit for another 10 before giving it a slight scoot on the paper. Then place it on your headstock with one finger on one end and pull the paper away in the opposite direction. Use your paint brush to go around the edgesband across the middle pushing the water out from underneath. Then use your qtips to push any air bubbles out. Now is the only time to do that. Then dab the whole thing with the paper towel and again place your finger on one end and push then slide the paper towel across the decal and then again in the other direction. You want to remove any water that is under, around or ontop of the decal in this step. Then allow them to dry overnight at minimum before applying any clear coat onto them.

    20190504_202321.jpg

    Next step will be to apply about 3 coats to the face and sand that back and repeat till the face and decal are level with one another before applying a final coat. Then cure, sand and polish. Stay tuned.
     
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  11. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    Had to do some metal working today. The Leo Quan Badass II bridge is significantly larger on the (bad)ass end than a stock fender bridge..

    20190505_110440.jpg

    This prevents the bridge cover from sitting in the correct position on the bass. So I measured, taped and marked the area that needed to be removed so it could fit over the bridge. Then drilled the corners and took it to my scroll saw. Using a fine toothed metal cutting blade and very little forward pressure I cut just shy of the line and then finish filed it to the correct size and shape.

    20190505_111923.jpg 20190505_114305.jpg

    Now it sits right where it should and doesn't interfere with the bridge either. Blends well too.

    20190505_122953.jpg 20190505_122958.jpg

    Over all I am pretty happy with how this turned out. This was one of the parts that has had me worried since I bought these parts lol. Nice to get that done and off my mind. Back to watching paint dry I go. Stay tuned. Body clear coat should be coming next.
     
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  12. daan

    daan Squier-holic

    Oct 21, 2013
    Twin Cities
    Man this will be suh-WEET when it’s done!
     
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  13. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    I know!! Lol. I am itching to finish and start playing this thing lol. Thanks man!
     
    dbrian66 likes this.
  14. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    Got the first of many clear coat layers on this afternoon. The can says to wait 4 hours before recoating so this will be all I will get on here for today. Then another 2 mayyyyybe 3 tomorrow and we will see where we are at and go from there.

    20190506_164507.jpg

    I also got the decals and face flush sanded and the final coating for the neck has started.

    20190506_164524.jpg

    Should be buffing this right about the same time as the body if all goes well. Home streatch now!! Stay tuned
     
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  15. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    Clear coat #5 is on and should get 6 on by the end of tonight. The neck is tinting up nicely with all the warm sun we have had this week. A couple more weeks of that and it will be ready for final sanding and buffing and have a nice vintage (non-orange) tint to it.

    While I was waiting between coats I fired up my trusty Hako soldering iron and soldered up the control plate as far as I can till the body is finished.

    20190507_164100.jpg

    I went with the standard jazz bass wiring with the treble bleeds and swapped the cap for a .01uf orange cap. Even tossed some mojo in with 2 carbon comp resistors on the bleed circuits (mojo is a thing..change my mind). Cloth pushback wiring and all that jazz.

    20190507_164354.jpg

    Pleasantly pleased with the end result.

    20190507_172305.jpg 20190507_172325.jpg 20190507_172357.jpg

    All that is left to solder are the pickup leads and the bridge ground but those will wait till assembly.

    Back to watching paint dry. Enjoy and stay tuned!
     
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  16. LzeroKI

    LzeroKI Squier-Meister

    145
    Jan 13, 2014
    North Carolina
    Just commenting to say that your wiring harness assembly is beautiful, well done.

    Also, what is the carbon comp resistor bleed circuit? Not something I've seen before.
     
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  17. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    The treble bleed is a 470pf cap and a 220k resistor in parallel from lugs 2 and 3 on the 2 volume pots. It is supposed to retain some low end when the volume is turned down. The carbon comp resistors are simply some vintage resistors I have on hand. Any type resistor will do just fine.

    Here is the bleed wiring layout

    wiring-diagram-jazz-bass.jpg
     
    dbrian66 likes this.
  18. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    Well today was a rather irritating day. I have a set of Fender Custom Shop 60's Jazz Bass pickups that I purchased along side everything else back in 2005 (even the package says so lol. 15 year old nos cs pups lol).

    20190508_095725.jpg 20190508_095741.jpg 20190508_095749.jpg

    The package had never been opened just placed in a box along with everything else.

    Well I finally pulled them from the package today to measure them against a set of '09 Squier Standard Jazz Alnico Pickups I have in my parts drawer.

    This is when I discovered I had 0 resistance or continuity on the neck pickup from the CS set. I removed the cover to find a broken winding on that one. Irritated I called Fender and was told sorry your out of warranty and sol on these top of the line brand new pickups that were wound by "world class craftsman". Anyhoo... So I looked to see where the break was and luckily it was towards the end of the windings. I lost a total of 2.5 turns. Got that soldered to the hot lead and finally in business. I neglected to take pics of this process as I was still steamed from my phone call and having to fix these in the first place. I had also considered messaging Ken at Rose Pickups to see how much a rewinding would run if it wasn't so close to the end of the winding.

    So after all that I got my multimeter out again and checked our numbers between the 2 sets. The Squiers come in at a respectable 6.09k neck and 6.25k bridge. I will be holding onto those and using them on my fretless build whenever I get around to that.

    20190508_105305.jpg

    The CS pickups measured out as 6.9k neck after the repair and 6.85k bridge which is weird that it is lower than the neck. Fender states these should be 7.1k neck and 7.4k bridge so this is a good example of why you should go with a small manufacturer. They are going to be about the same price but I would guess you will be more likely to get what you ordered (in working condition too).

    20190508_105347.jpg

    These will still go in this bass but they may end up getting replaced by something else depending on how they sound. Cheers. Hope I haven't bored y'all to death. But for the one or two of you still following along stay tuned as usual!
     
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  19. daan

    daan Squier-holic

    Oct 21, 2013
    Twin Cities
    I’ve had pups measure differently, in different “environmental conditions”- buying a pup at a store on a cold, dry winter day and having the ohm readings be different than me checking it months later in my humid basement the next summer (different multimeters, too) So I wouldn’t be worried about a slight difference, but 7.4>6.85 is real different... Maybe the magnets are (slightly) less strong from just being old? I’m no expert, I’m just kinda running my mouth here...
     
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  20. Bassman96

    Bassman96 Squier-holic

    Age:
    41
    Nov 13, 2010
    Oak Harbor, WA
    Yeah it would seem these definitely missed some winding on the bridge pup. That coupled with the broken winding on the neck I wonder if it was a Friday or Monday at the factory lol. I'll see how they sound and may still bend Kens ear about a rewind if I don't like them.
     
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