Hotel room Epi P90 Special bridge repair

Discussion in 'Other Guitars' started by Michael7, Jul 10, 2018.

  1. Michael7

    Michael7 Squier-holic

    I posted the details of my Sacramento area purchase of a $45 Epi Special in a prior thread. It had a bad drilling in the body at the high E side of the wrap-around bridge.

    Note also I was not the only one with this exact problem.

    I'm in California again for the first time since I got that guitar, and brought the stuff to repair it with me in my suitcase. I wanted to do something permanent and professional looking.

    I cut some super thin slices of pine board on my table saw. These are probably about 1/32" thickness max. They are thin enough to be flexible without splitting. I measured the depth of the body hole and cut 2 pieces of the shim stock just slightly less, so they would not stick out of the top of the hole.

    I brought with me a tiny amount of wood glue in a small ziplock bag, and some bee's wax. I did a trial fit of the 2 shims, making sure they didn't overlap. I painted the arched upper side of the 2 shims (pic 2) with wood glue and inserted them into the hole. I had a small dowel that I used to position the shims so they were properly located. Then I used some bee's wax on the outside of the metal body insert, so it would not stick to the glue, and pushed it into the hole to tightly wedge the shims into position while the glue dried.

    It worked out perfectly, and now I have good real wood in the oversize hole. I love the adjustable Wilkinson bridge, and hope to find 3 more to put on my 2 Epi Juniors and First Act LP copy.

    Total investment in this guitar so far is about $60!

    IMG_20180710_241703806_HDR.jpg IMG_20180709_201744392.jpg IMG_20180709_202334283.jpg IMG_20180709_204538852_HDR.jpg IMG_20180709_204655023.jpg
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
  2. Michael7

    Michael7 Squier-holic

    Thanks Ken! I meant to add that the adjustable bridge sounds very good, no loss of resonance and sustain that I can tell compared to the stock cast Epi one. And of course the intonation is now fully adjustable. Need to tweak that a little after work tonight.

    With fresh strings, this guitar has a very strong and surprising acoustic property and the pickups sound really good. Next time I'm out here, I'll bring my fretboard guards and files to round off the sharp ends of these frets, which currently are far less nicely finished than those on my 2 $40 Epi Juniors.
    Kenneth Mountain likes this.
  3. DrBeGood

    DrBeGood Squier-holic

    Dec 9, 2014
    Sutton QC, CANADA
    Niiice job Michael ! And lucky you, Titebond glue is almost TV Yellow by default, so the top of the shims must blend in nicely :rolleyes:.

    I filled a nice bumpity bump booboo in mine with layers of wood glue. Looks OK for underside of horn. Never went back to finish it though, since I only see it when I show this photo.

    Horn booboo.jpg
    Since you mention revisiting your intonation, I'd move the bridge back a little on the lower E side, to give it more room to adjust saddles on that side.
  4. Michael7

    Michael7 Squier-holic

    Here's the same adjustable bridge, but not Wilkinson branded. If I find the Wilky ones again, I'll post here. They were the same price as these unbranded ones. You can also get these in USA for about $23 for those who don't want to wait 2 weeks.

    PS: Here is a different link, for under $10 each. I'll probably order these if the supplier I used for the Wilkinson still can't supply. These bridges are way nicer than the stock Epi one for low dough.
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
  5. Michael7

    Michael7 Squier-holic

    Thanks DrBeGood! I need to pull the repaired insert out tonight, since I forgot to drill my shims for the ground wire and need to pull the wire back through so it contacts the insert sleeve. I also didn't have the right hex wrench for adjusting the bridge fore and aft, but will do later. The intonation wasn't that far off, but I can make it better.

    I'll take a pic of the body hole with the insert out later.

    By the way, I bought a pair of GM alnico 2 P-94s based on your clips and reviews. They will go into one of my Juniors pretty soon.
    DrBeGood likes this.
  6. Stratlover84

    Stratlover84 Squier-Nut

    Jun 16, 2016
    Nice one! Those guitars are worth it! Do you think everything else on that guitar is satisfactory?

    Everything works great on mine, but I find the trapezoid tuners don't have the greatest tuning precision. Thinking of dropping some chrome keystone tuners like these:

  7. Michael7

    Michael7 Squier-holic

    Let me know when you find a cheap source for those keystones. My guitar is essentially factory new, since the seller never used it, and the tuners feel smooth enough in operation. But I think something better will have a nicer, more solid feel in operation. This guitar has a somewhat cheap feel, and better tuners and fret ends will go a long way to overcome that, now that I have a better bridge.

    Also, I'll install a better nut next time I change strings on this one. Should help tuning stability.
    Stratlover84 likes this.
  8. so1om

    so1om Dr. Squier

    Feb 10, 2010
    Why would you not want the splined shaft to be glued in?
  9. Michael7

    Michael7 Squier-holic

    I assume you mean the outside of the metal body insert. When I have pulled these out of other guitars, they never seemed to be glued in place. Presumably for ease of changing to another bridge type down the road. The string tension is lateral on the insert/stud, so gluing wouldn't make it stronger. I did think about wiping water-thin CA glue on the bare wood of the 2 insert bores, since that glue would sink into the pores of the wood and make the "sleeve" of wood around the insert a little stronger.

    Why would you want the insert to be glued in? Just curious.
  10. DoctorBB

    DoctorBB Squier-Meister

    Mar 2, 2016
    Beaumont, TX
    Man, you’re working too hard cutting the filler strips. I use the cedar rapper on cigars. Works like a charm.
    so1om likes this.
  11. so1om

    so1om Dr. Squier

    Feb 10, 2010
    o_Oo_Oo_O So they don't pull out.

    On Gibson/Epiphone basses, these posts often pull out. The bridge also has that third, smaller post, ahead of the bridge. People often crank that and the large insert posts are levered out.

    I pull them, slather the heck out of them and push them back in. Fixed forever.
  12. Michael7

    Michael7 Squier-holic

    I don't have access to cigars. Plus the wood strips were by-products of trimming boards needed to make speaker cabinets. So didn't get the table saw out just to do the strips.

    Last edited: Jul 10, 2018
  13. Michael7

    Michael7 Squier-holic

    I would never glue them in for this reason. At some point, if you need to pull them out for any reason, if they are glued in place, removing them could easily cause the wood face of the guitar around each hole to splinter out away from the hole. That would necessitate a much more difficult and conspicuous repair on the front of the guitar. I would not want to take that chance. It even happened to me on one of these Epi inserts, but it was just 2 hairline finish cracks that I repaired at the same time as gluing in the wood shims. I forced wood glue into the cracks and applied pressure, then wiped off the face of the guitar with a wet face cloth courtesy of Motel 6! Now invisible.

    You could possibly remove glued in inserts by putting a soldering iron down the threaded hole and getting the metal so hot that I separates from the glue. I'd personally try to avoid having to do that too.
  14. so1om

    so1om Dr. Squier

    Feb 10, 2010
    I cannot think of a reason to pull them out. Also, a little water and a puller (to pull them vertically) works surprisingly well and easy.

    It's all fine by me.
  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice