Fret-ends not flush

Discussion in 'Squier Stratocasters' started by Eddie, May 23, 2018.

  1. Eddie

    Eddie Dr. Squier

    Age:
    48
    Nov 5, 2016
    New York
    One particular guitar has the fret-ends not flush with the fingerboard ... maybe less than 1 mm. It's the entire fretboard ... every single fret.

    I'm assuming it came out of the factory like this. Is this common? The high E keeps getting snagged.

    Is there an easy fix? If it's not easy, then I'll just pop the neck off and replace it.

    I'll post pictures tonight.
     
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  2. Eddie

    Eddie Dr. Squier

    Age:
    48
    Nov 5, 2016
    New York
    There's a teenie-tiny bit of separation between the fret-ends and the fingerboard. I don't think it's a bad fret because it's on both sides across the entire neck.
     
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  3. wickedtools

    wickedtools Squier-holic

    May 16, 2010
    west texas
    Sometimes you can tap them in place with a small ball pin brass hammer then file down smooth.
     
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  4. Eddie

    Eddie Dr. Squier

    Age:
    48
    Nov 5, 2016
    New York
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  5. wickedtools

    wickedtools Squier-holic

    May 16, 2010
    west texas
  6. theflow

    theflow Squier-holic

    Age:
    58
    Feb 16, 2017
    Palmetto,FL
    The wood shrinks ,most likely they were flush when made but, less expensive guitars sometimes don't have properly aged/dried wood,so after awhile the moisture content decreases and you get "fret sprout". :)
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJL8QW8/?tag=squiertalk-20
     
  7. Eddie

    Eddie Dr. Squier

    Age:
    48
    Nov 5, 2016
    New York
    That makes a lot of sense. Lots of things can change in 20 years. Look at us. ha ha

    It's not totally unreasonable. I'll see if I can fix it. If not, then I'll swap out the neck.
     
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  8. Papa Joe

    Papa Joe Squier-Axpert

    Age:
    89
    Dec 12, 2009
    Swanton Ohio
    With the neck removed, I use a 10" mill file and run it down the edge of the neck until it removes the excess fret material.
    Then I finish them with a small file and sand paper..
    Easy process..
     
  9. mikm

    mikm Dr. Squier

    Jun 4, 2012
    NY
    I've had good results with a rectangular knife sharpening stone! It gets the bulk of the work done then just touch up with a set like those from Harbor Freight. Little money invested but gets the job done! Don't forget Eddie, painter's tape is your friend! Helps prevent mishaps! PS: if it's rosewood, oil up the fretboard with lemon oil and give it a couple of days to see if it improves any on it's own. Good luck.
     
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  10. theflow

    theflow Squier-holic

    Age:
    58
    Feb 16, 2017
    Palmetto,FL
    I invested in the tool because I do a lot of necks and I figure as many as you buy Eddie you should invest in one too ! ;)
     
  11. Eddie

    Eddie Dr. Squier

    Age:
    48
    Nov 5, 2016
    New York

    I think you're right. The tools looks like it'll come in handy ... often. :)
     
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  12. DrBeGood

    DrBeGood Squier-holic

    Dec 9, 2014
    Sutton QC, CANADA
    This usually happens in winter though, when heat is on in the house. So, if I were you, I'd put it aside and wait for next winter to attack it, because it will sprout again then.
     
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  13. Papa Joe

    Papa Joe Squier-Axpert

    Age:
    89
    Dec 12, 2009
    Swanton Ohio
    I don't think it's too late to do it..I do mine in late winter or early spring..
     
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  14. DrBeGood

    DrBeGood Squier-holic

    Dec 9, 2014
    Sutton QC, CANADA
    I've already readjusted the truss rods on some of my guitars, showing that humidity levels greatly shifted.
     
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  15. rocknrguitars

    rocknrguitars Squier-Meister

    Age:
    59
    293
    Jun 4, 2017
    East Helena Montana
    I start with a fret beveling file, but you can use sand paper on a sanding block held at roughly 30 degrees. The I use a fret file. The stewMac file is the best I have found. One side is rounded and smooth so it will not mar the fingerboard. Even if you don't go with the file, you would benefit from viewing the video on it at Stewart MacDonald. I can do a neck in 5 to 10 minutes no problem. If you are going to use a hammer to set the frets, unless it is a Fretting hammer with a brass and a rubber side, I would use a small block of wood placed on the fret you are going to seat. So when you hit it with a hammer it does not loose its form. i.e. Big old hammer mark on the fret.
     
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  16. theflow

    theflow Squier-holic

    Age:
    58
    Feb 16, 2017
    Palmetto,FL
    The CB Gitty is rounded the same way I just prefer a wooden handle .:)
     
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  17. Rollmeaway

    Rollmeaway Squier-Nut

    Age:
    64
    815
    Feb 7, 2016
    Fayetteville, NC
    First off: I recently posted about working on frets without protection. A box of 100 nitrile gloves goes a long way. I did quite a few fret levels and other fret work bare handed in the last few years. Recent xrays found "metal paticles" in my hands.

    The way you describe it, it sounds more like the frets were not seated all the way down to the fretboard or the ends raised when the wood dried and shrunk. If you have that combined with fret sprout, I don't think just fixing the fret sprout is gonna solve all your problems. You still have frets up, not seated properly. But hey, if it plays OK after you fix the fret ends then great. If not, you will have to seat the frets with a press or hammer like has been mentioned. Probably won't hurt to check the frets level as long as your this far into it.
     
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  18. Dave M

    Dave M Squier-Meister

    225
    Feb 27, 2017
    Mira Loma, CA
    I have bought the fret dressing file tool from StewMac..pricey but do what the factory won't. I have also used a flat mill file to go along the edge of the frets and not hit the wood, finish up the the Stewmac tool. my MIM 60's series Strat came with fret sprout but when I " oiled " the fret-board it swelled back out and no more sprout.!!! :cool:
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2018
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