what is involved in redoing the finish?

horax · 09-01-2010, 02:25 AM

I am thinking about redoing a black/white strat sitting here, but I would like to know what you'd have to do to get through the existing black finish.

ghostwolf · 09-01-2010, 02:50 AM

a heatgun and a scraper work best, but sandpaper will also work. chemical strippers will not do it.

Papa Joe · 09-01-2010, 04:50 AM

I just stripped one with Ace paint stripper..

TwoMartinMan · 09-01-2010, 11:03 AM

I tried strippers and they didn't work for me. I used 60 grit sandpaper in a finishing sander. Didn't take long. I used a drum sander in my power drill to get into the horn hollows.

bluecar · 09-01-2010, 11:35 AM

Papa Joe,

What was the part number on the Ace Paint Stripper ??

It worked on a heavy Squier poly finish ??

Cool.

Thanks,
BC

dannyvawn · 09-01-2010, 01:34 PM

Heres a project that I started today. As you can see it was originally white and then refinished in blue right over the existing finish. It may be automotive paint with a heavy clearcoat. I have only used one coat of stripper so far and you can see its eating it away. Not bad for 2 paint jobs. I Bought this Kleen strip KS-3 premium stripper at Walmart and have used it on 2 projects. This bass may need 3 applications but it will make my sanding project much easier. Im either going to stain it green or go for a cherry sunburst

You can tell that it didnt do too bad. considering the amount of paint that was on it.

dannyvawn · 09-01-2010, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghostwolf

a heatgun and a scraper work best, but sandpaper will also work. chemical strippers will not do it.

How well does a heat gun work? Do you use a putty knife for a scraper? More info please.

Kyri · 09-01-2010, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by horax

I am thinking about redoing a black/white strat sitting here, but I would like to know what you'd have to do to get through the existing black finish.

I re-did a black strat but used mechanical method (sanding) which was a lot of hard work, especially the wood sealer (sanding sealer) which is under the paint. Here is a link to the black one:

http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/stra...pray-help.html

I have since tried paint stripper but found that it only goes down to the sealer, and the only way to get the sealer off is by sanding, although I haven't tried a heat gun. If the sealer finish is good, then it may be OK to respray over that.

houseguitarshop · 09-01-2010, 02:31 PM

I re-searched alot about re-finishing a guitar.

the easiest way is to only sand off the clear coat.

then use the original paint as a primer. (the reason, most bodies are treated or sealed before primed and paited, and if you take the paint down to the wood you lost the seal, makeing the body more susceptible to atmospheric changes

if all the clear coat is sanded off then you can simply paint over the original color. let dry, sand alot,

then clear coat over that.

dannyvawn · 09-01-2010, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by houseguitarshop

I re-searched alot about re-finishing a guitar.

the easiest way is to only sand off the clear coat.

then use the original paint as a primer. (the reason, most bodies are treated or sealed before primed and paited, and if you take the paint down to the wood you lost the seal, makeing the body more susceptible to atmospheric changes

Thats all good if you are painting but I am planning a stain or a translucent cherry sunburst so I need to go to bare wood. The stripper just helps save time and money on sandpaper. Those little sandpaper discs aren't cheap and with all of the clear coat and the hard M&M candy shell, they wear out fast.

houseguitarshop · 09-01-2010, 03:56 PM

I see,

a stain probably inst going to look very good if you only sand off the clear coat.

my bad, I misunderstood, i thought you all were talking about a re-paint not a stain.

good luck

ghostwolf · 09-01-2010, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannyvawn

How well does a heat gun work? Do you use a putty knife for a scraper? More info please.

yep, a 2" putty knife and a heat gun work real well. just be careful of two things- round off the corners of the scraper, so it doesn't gouge the wood. second, don't hold the heat in one place too long, or it will scorch the wood.

Papa Joe · 09-01-2010, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluecar

Papa Joe,

What was the part number on the Ace Paint Stripper ??

It worked on a heavy Squier poly finish ??

Cool.

Thanks,
BC

I have no isea what the part number is..Just ask for paint stripper.

I've used that Clean Strip also..They're all pretty much the same.
The guitar that I stripped was a Stringmaster steel.

Atmarama · 09-03-2010, 01:31 AM

Ye stripper worked for me too, but I scraped with a piece of straight cut glass - works well!

Sparkfire · 09-03-2010, 08:18 AM

I think I will leave that stripping stuff to you guys.

Vott · 09-03-2010, 12:50 PM

I've sanded (air sander) a couple Koreans down to plain wood and other than time it wasnt to bad. What year did Squier start using this tough poly finish, so I can be prepared for this potential fiasco by checking SN dates.

pearlygates · 12-08-2010, 07:15 PM

Old thread.. I know.. But rattle cans work okay? I'm gonna be painting my Bullet body prolly tomorrow.. I have it all sanded..

grumpy old git · 12-09-2010, 03:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pearlygates

Old thread.. I know.. But rattle cans work okay?....

Yes they do, I think the majority of the people here use them for refinishing. I used some Rust-O-Leum paint on my Charley build and that came out fine, only comment I would make is that is still seems a little soft, even after around a month.

I don't know how warm it is where you are, but I stood the cans in very hot water for around 10 minutes before I sprayed to make sure it didn't gob out.

JimR · 12-09-2010, 04:11 AM

I'm just finishing up with one I painted with Duplicolor from an auto parts store. I used Duplicolor primer and paint and Deft clear coat. So far it looks good. Very time consuming though. I sanded the black, roughed it up and used primer. Waited a day and painted multiple coats of paint, 2 cans over 2 days. I waited a week then put clear coat on, again 2 cans over 2 days. After waiting a month I'm wet sanding now and it's looking pretty nice. A lot of work and the cost adds up with all the paint, clear coat, sand paper and polish, rags, etc. The vapor is pretty tough and you need warm temps to spray. I painted in my garage before it got cold and brought in the house after a few hours. I found a candle in the room with the drying guitar kept it from stinking up the house.